Stick Stops and Rudder Guide Blocks
Then the block was split into two.
Cut to size and sanded.
Here is where the blocks will go. I have to buy the proper size screws yet and varnish the wood.
There are two stick stops on the control system. Using a scrap piece if tubing cut from the torque tube, some 3/4 in wide sheet steel was bent around it. Then flanges were bent.
The flanges had to be bent so that 1/8 in. gap existed between them
Here is the piece. If you notice the little white paper pattern - that is the pattern used for the sloped "wedge".
The pattern was cut from some sheet steel.
And bent using a bar.
Here's the wedge in place.
Brazing sure looks horrible but not to worry.
After some wire wheeling and bead blasting, they look great.
I know Curtiss was weight conscious (look at all the castings - ha!) but the clamps were cut out on the sides. I drilled a hole in the center of the cutout area and used the Dremel tool to carve out the rest. Then the round file and a flat file smoothed everything out.
Now you can see the wedge in place. When you pull the control stick backwards, the casting hits the wedge. If you need more elevator control, the wedge is moved backwards. If you need less elevator control, move the wedge forward. Pretty neat, eh?
Here is the front control stick with the forward elevator stop wedge.
You know, it doesn't seem like much, but these four little pieces consumed several hours of shop time. Where did the day go?